As i have had quite a few cars coming to get dyno'd lately i would like to take the time to put out a pre tuning checklist, that should be payed attention to please.

I cannot strees the importance of this list as it will make my life easier, your bill less, and your car run better

A lot of people do not understand the importance of tuning a vehicle. Most people assume tuning is to make horsepower, what they do not realize is tuning is extremely important due to the fact that an untuned engine will eventually fail without proper tuning by an experienced tuner.

Before tuning you must choose what engine management you will be using. Not every vehicle needs an engine management such as the AEM EMS, as all the features and benefits may not be used on certain cars. But before choosing an EMS please weigh out what it will do for you. Many of you have invested a large amount of money in your car, DO NOT skimp on management, you get what you pay for

If you download some cheap internet software i can almost bet your car performance will reflect it,

- Before you have your vehicle tuned check list:
* Oxygen Sensor Bung: You must have a oxygen sensor bung which is accessable & installed in a proper location to where a good air/fuel pickup can be achieved. The oxygen sensor bung MUST have clean threads & be clear of any welds which may stop a larger wideband oxygen sensor from being installed into the bung. If you dont have one let me know and i can put one in for you*

Fuel Pump & Injectors: You must have the proper size & type injectors & fuel pump for your vehicle setup. Please consult with your tuner to ensure you have the proper combination.
Once again, i cannot make 600hp on a stock HF CR-X pump, lets be real

* Spark Plugs: Proper spark plugs & spare spark plugs for your application.
Please consult with your tuner if you are unsure as to what spark plugs to run.
Most sub 450 whp forced induction applications call for NGK BKR7E-11 [NGK-1283].
Most sub 450whp forced induction applications should use plugs gapped to around .028.

* Check engine light: Resolve all check engine codes before you have your vehicle tuned.

* Charge piping: Charge pipe couplings must be secure to prevent pipes from blowing off during tuning & causing delays. Please ensure your couplers and clamps will hold for the power you are trying to achieve, if you want 400hp, Home Depot rubber couplers and worm clamps wont cut it!*

Engine compression (No more then 20psi between cylinders.)
8:1-8.5:1 c/r = 150-170 psi per cylinder 8.5:1-9.5:1 c/r = 170-210 psi per cylinder
9.5:1-11:1 c/r = 210-275 psi per cylinder 11:1+ c/r = 250+ per cylinder

* Electrical issues: Please resolve all electrical issues before tuning.
"Duct Tape" is NOT proper wiring connectors! Power lines running thru door hinges will not be tolerated!

* Brakes, Suspension, Tires: All of these components are extremely important, especially if your going to have your vehicle street tuned. Please make sure they are all in good condition. I refuse to die in your car

* Proper octane fuel for your application: Please inform your tuner of what fuel you are running. You should run the highest octane which is widely available in your area such as 93 octane. Try to prevent having your vehicle tuned with gas which has been sitting in your vehicle for more than 20-30 days. No more than 20 psi for turbo vehicles on pump gas

* Forced Induction vehicles should invest into a pcv catch can system such as the endyne kit.

- What is required to have your vehicle tuned:
1. A vehicle/motor/setup in good mechanical condition.
2. A chipped/socketed obd1 ecu & a obd conversion harness if your vehicle requires one.
(Consult with your tuner to provide you with a chipped ecu or ecu chipping services)
3. The proper sized & resistence injectors for your application. (Ask your tuner)
92-00 Civic/Integra vehicles require Saturated HIGH RESISTANCE injectors (11-14 ohm)
LOW RESISTANCE injectors maybe used in 92-00 Civic/Integras using a resistor box.
240cc = 180-190whp 310cc = 200-220whp 370cc = 220-280whp
440cc = 280-330whp 550cc = 330whp-380whp 660cc = 380whp-425whp
720cc = 425whp-475whp 880cc = 475whp-525whp 1000cc = 525whp-600whp
4. The proper sized fuel pump. (Most street applications: Walbro 255lph fuel pump).
5. A couple of sets of spark plugs. (NGK BKR7E-N-11 for most applications under 400 whp.) Consult your tuner.
5. Optional: Fuel pressure regulator & Guage
6. Optional: Cam Gears for dyno tuning purposes.

- What is Air Fuel Ratio & Ignition Timing:
Air/Fuel ratio is the ratio of air to fuel. Ignition timing is the point at which spark is produced to create combustion. 25-30% of air/fuel mixture energy actually becomes "work" aka thrust. The remaining 70-75% becomes exhaust. Ignition timing & A/F ratio are both used to control the heat which an engine produces during combustion. For example, in most cases forced induction motors require a richer air fuel mixture of 12 parts fuel to 1 part air at wide open throttle using pump gas. Where as naturally aspirated motors usually run 13 parts fuel to 1 part air at wide open throttle. Running a richer air fuel mixture on a forced induction motor, helps absorb the heat which is produced due to the higher charge density.

- What is detonation:
Detonation occurs in the combustion process when the advancing flame front, which is pressurizing and heating the unburned mixture ahead of it, does so at such a rate that unburned fuel in that zone achieves its auto-ignition temperature before the arrival of the actual flame front. The result is that the unburned mixture combusts "spontaneously" and over the entire zone where the auto-ignition temperature has been achieved. The apparent flame speed in this zone is many orders of magnitude faster than that in conventional combustion initiated by a normal flame front, with the result that the local rise of pressure and temperature is significantly sharp. This produces the characteristic "knocking" or "pinking" sound, and the local mechanical devastation that this can produce on piston crown or cylinder head can be considerable. Actually, "knocking" is the correct terminology for what is a really a detonation behavior over a small portion of the combustion charge. A true detonation process would be one occurring over the entire compressed charge. However, because detonation in this strictly defined sense does not take place in the spark-ignition engine, the words "knocking" and "detonation" are used interchangeably in the literature, without loss of meaning, to describe the effects just discussed.

- What causes detonation?:
Detonation occurs when several conditions / factors inside the combustion chamber exist at the same time. Increased compression, high temperatures, lean fuel/air mixture, advanced ignition timing, and lower octane fuels are all factors that PROMOTE detonation conditions. The good news is that, because there are so many factors in play, you can always find a way to eliminate detonation if it exists.

- What is cam timing:
Cam timing is the rotating position of your camshaft(s). This position maybe altered using an adjustable cam sprocket. Using cam timing adjustments a tuner can usually change an engine's working environment & create more horsepower.

- What is a wideband oxygen sensor:
A wideband oxygen sensor is a sensor which allows you to monitor parts air to fuel. Most people have the preconception that a basic autometer air/fuel guage using the stock oxygen sensor in their vehicle will give them all the information they need about being in a lean or rich condition. This information is false, the factory narrowband oxygen sensor will not provide you with an accurate reading because the oxygen sensor is a narrowband sensor which does not have a wide enough of a range to accurately sense air/fuel mixtures needed to properly tune a vehicle. The purchase of a wideband oxygen sensor is not required due to the fact that almost every tuner provides one with his services etc.

- What is dyno & street tuning:
Dyno tuning is the use of a dynamometer to measure wheel horse power and torque. Using a dyno to tune a vehicle is very important. A dyno provides a controlled platform for a tuner to make adjustments & see the repercussions to those adjustments. This will allow your tuner to make the safest horsepower/torque with your vehicle.

Street tuning is the tuning of a vehicle while being driven on the street. Street tuning is a good idea after dyno tuning to ensure that a vehicle's tune is spot on in real world conditions (air temperatures, vehicle load etc.). Street tuning is also important to ensure that partial throttle tuning is correct.

In most cases both Dyno & Street tuning methods of tuning are necessary to achieve the best possible results. Street tuning is extremely important because it simulates real world conditions. I.E. Temperature, Wind, Engine Load etc. By street tuning a vehicle, you can monitor real world drive-ability, engine conditions & general fuel economy. The reason dyno tuning is needed on-top of street tuning is to monitor wheel horse & torque power and torque so that you can achieve maximum horsepower results in a controlled environment using ignition & cam timing adjustments.

If more than a few of these conditions are not met, there is a good possibility your car may not be able to be tuned or your tuner may just plain refuse to tune it.

-Tampa Mike